Care Sheet
Description:
Leopard geckos are fully terrestrial & do not climb walls like other geckos. They are also one of the few gecko species that possess eyelids. Leopards get their name from the full-body spotting of their adult coloration. Hatchlings are born with dark bands that turn light & break up into spots as the geckos mature.
Housing:
Leopards are very easy to house. A pair (one male and one female) can live happily in a twenty gallon glass aquarium. Adding rocks and foilage will provide them with a more natural habitat.
Substrate:
The best substrate to use is paper, newspaper, paper towel, or slate. While sand is part of a leopard gecko's natural habitat, we recommend not using it as the gecko may become impacted (develop digestive problems). Our animals are all kept on paper for this reason.
Heating:
It is very important to provide warm and cool ends to the tank.This will allow the leo to regulate its own body temperature which aids digestion. It's best to provide a hot spot of 88°-90°F on one end while the other end is kept to the mid 70's. There are popular ways to provide proper heat. Using a heat pad or heat tape that runs under the tank to provide proper heat for your leopard geckos are recommended.
Handling:
When handling your gecko it is best to give it at least two weeks to settle in and adjust to its new environment. Once the adjustment period has passed, let it walk across your hand inside the cage. This is usually done 10-20 minutes daily.Remember that excessive and/or rough handling can cause stress on the animal. Do not grab it by the tail! If threatened, the tail will break off.
Quarantine:
It is very inportant that no matter where or who you have recive your gecko it must be keep quarantine from your other animals for a period of about 30 to 90 days.if you do not quarintine your animal and it is sick you infect all your other animals.
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